Now, you know how we just survived Valentine’s Day? Right! What you don’t know is that Bulgarians also survived Wine Day (Trifon Zarezan Day), also conveniently located on 14 February each year, and certainly venerated long before the advent of plush toys and badly written cards. The origins of this viticultural tradition are hidden in legend and myth, and there is no shortage of folk tales about how this tradition was born.
Some folk tales involve Trifon, a wine grower, cutting off his nose. Others, retell Greek legends related to God Dionysus. My favourite folk tale is the one my parents used to tell me when I was young. According to it, Trifon was employed to tend the vineyards of a wealthy vineyard owner, who was a stingy man and habitually paid Trifon’s wages late or not at all. One day, (presumably on 14 February), Trifon finally had had enough. He got up early in the morning and went to his employer’s vineyard with a pair of big shears and did some serious pruning of vines as a revenge. Believing the vineyard to be destroyed, Trifon left the village. As irony would have it, the following year the vines grew healthier and yielded the best grapes ever.
Through the years, shears and scissors have become a symbol of fertility in Bulgaria. Even today, on 14 February every year, Bulgarian wine growers wake up early in the morning, take along wine and food, and a band of musicians, and set off to prune their vineyards with a pair of big shears. Their wives make round loaves of bread decorated with grapes and vines made of dough (also a symbol of fertility), and hand them generously to their neighbours.
Although it’s well known that pruning vines improves the quality of grape yield, at its roots, Trifon Zarezan is a pagan celebration of the new agricultural season, a festival of fertility, life and rebirth. And, of course, an excuse to gather round the table with your friends and celebrate with delicious food and drink, a cause we support ardently!
On a related note, we have continued to degustate on your behalf a variety of (mostly) choice wines from all over the world. I’d say a fine start to 2012! We hope you’ve had a good start to the year too! Here are 12 wine reviews and a delicious recipe to help you celebrate!
2007 Netherberg Pinotage (South Africa). Pinotage, a South African grape variety, is a mix of Pinot Noir and Cinsaut (also known as Hermitage). Dark purplish red, with some transparency. Relatively low alcoholic content at 13.5%. Oak and smoke on the nose. Oak and dark red fruit, relatively smooth on the palate, though can be a bit one-note and too acidic at first. Dry and medium-bodied. Develops layers and sophistication later on. Very nice at 7 out of 10.
The next two wines were saved for special occasions by my mother-in-law. We greeted the New Year with them and they were both delightful!
2003 Familia Martinez Bujanda Crianza (Rioja, Spain). Dark cherry colour. Rich, smooth and velvety. Bright cherry flavours, some oak, spice and vanilla flavours. Delightful old-world Rioja and exactly what one expects from a 8-year old wine. An outstanding 9 out of 10.
2007 Cosecha Rioja Bodegas Martinez Corta (Spain) Vendimia Seleccionada. Bright red colour with a tinge of purple. Intensely flavoured fruit on the nose. Blueberry and blackcurrant, liquorice, chocolate, roasted cocoa and cinnamon on the palate. Powerful and elegantly layered. Sweet tannis and good acidity. Long and smooth. An excellent 8.5 out of 10.
2004 Criadores de Rioja Altivo Reserva (Spain). Fruity flavours, plum, black current and blackberry. Somewhat harsh initially, after breathing for a while it opens up a bit. Very little oak, which was okay with me. Not as complex as can be expected from a 7-year-old Rioja. Decently long finish. Altogether a respectable 5 out of 10.
2007 Vina Tarapaca Sauvignon Blanc (Chile). Oops! We had another white wine sneak into our line-up over New Year’s, but it didn’t do too shabbily. Very pale clean hue. Fresh citrus nose. Grapefruit, lemon, melon and a little fig on the palate. Dry and light-bodied with sharp acidity and a clean, lasting finish. A pleasant 4.5 out of 10.
2006 Wolf Gap Mariage Reserva (Virginia, USA). I would have never expected such dark, intense, full-bodied representative of the reds from Shenandoah Valley. Cognac, tobacco and wood on the nose. Strong flavours of blackcurrant, black cherry, a little oak, liquorice and port, with a little bitterness on the palate. Sophisticated structure, elegant layering, long, lingering finish, strong tannins. A wonderful 8.5 out of 10.
2007 Wolf Gap Cabernet Frank (Virginia, USA). Another pleasant surprise from the Shenandoah Valley. Spice, pepper, black cherry, blackcurrant, red berries. Decent tannins, but less structured, not much acidity. Still, a solid 6.5 out of 10.
2009 Maipe Bonard Mendoza (Argentina) Very dark red colour and good acidity. Raspberry on the nose, blackberry and cherry on the palate. Still quite young, but a good aging potential. A respectable 4 out of 10.
2007 Bourgogne Pinot Noir Jadot (France). The garnet colour typical of older Burgundy wines, but too one-note and bland. A little berry on the palate, but overpowered by alcohol, voluminous but thin. Quite a short finish. Quite watery, it lacks structure and has a strange chemical aftertaste. Disappointing in this price range. A bare 2.5 out of 10.
2009 Obikwa Pinotage (South Africa). Medium-bodied with intense dark colour. Earthy on the nose. Soft, round and sweet on the palate. Cherries, red fruit and a little spice with a pleasant structure. Long finish, well-balanced by a decent amount of tannins. A very nice 7 out of 10.
2009 Les Fleurs de Sud Cabernet Sauvignon, Vin de Pays d’Oc (France). Deep red colour. Good tannins. Ripe red berries and spices on the nose. Dark berries, elderflower, violets, spices and hints of pepper on the palate. Full-bodied, round, smooth, long finish, decent structure. An excellent 7.5 out of 10.
2009 Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi Zinfandel (California, USA). Peppery and spicy with dried cranberries, plums, raspberries and a hint of vanilla on the nose and on the palate. Smooth, medium-bodied with supple tannins and medium finish. Not an overly complex structure, but very pleasant and easy to drink. It got a very nice 8 out of 10. We paired it with a Pan-Roasted Steak with Butter Beans and Leaks. I’ll take credit for the cooking and the photography, but the fabulous recipe is from Cook with Jamie. Thank you, Jamie!

- In a splash of olive oil and a knob of butter, sauté 4 leeks, finely sliced, together with a small bunch of fresh thyme leaves and 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped, over low heat for about 20 mins;
- Turn up the heat and add a wine glass of white wine;
- After the wine comes to a boil, add 500g/1lb. good-quality tinned or jarred butter beans, drained and rinsed;
- Add a little bit of water so that the beans are almost covered;
- Simmer for 5-10 mins. until the beans are creamy;
- Add a small handful of parsley, finely chopped and 1 soup spoonful of crème fraîche (I substituted with yoghurt for a healthier version);
- Add a glug of good-quality extra virgin olive oil to the dish;
- Add sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste, mix well and remove from heat;
- In a pre-heated pan, grill 4 (200gr./7oz.) marbled fillet steaks, preferably free-range or organic, (2.5–4cm/1–1½ inches) thick for 2-3 min. on each side for medium rare; add a 1-2 mins on each side for medium;
- Remove the steaks from the grill and let them rest for 5 mins;
- Before serving, drizzle steaks with olive oil, lemon juice and the resting juices;
- Cut the steak in pieces as shown above, and serve over the butter beans and leeks.
Tips for a perfectly pan-roasted steak. Choose good quality beef fillet steaks with a bit of fat on them. Pre-heat a flat pan or a griddle pan until it’s really hot: the pan will probably start smoking. Make sure your steaks are room temperature before you cook them: about 2o mins. out of the fridge should do the trick. Do not oil the pan, oil the steaks. Choose sunflower or corn oil, not olive oil as it has a low smoking point. Season steaks generously with salt and pepper on both sides before pan-roasting. Roast about 2 mins. on each side for medium rare. Leave the steaks to rest for at least 5 minutes before serving. Bon appetit!
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